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<br />COASTAL FLOOD PROBLEMS <br />00244f1 <br /> <br />8 <br /> <br />6-132, <br /> <br />'I)'" <br />"....:~~:. <br />.~?: <br /> <br />Waves add to the peak water levels at shoreline sites during <br /> <br />a storm surge and, can, in some instances, increase the height of flood <br /> <br />by many tens of feet. For example, a two-foot wave may run up a <br /> <br />13 <br />sloping beach to a height of seven or eight feet above the stillwater line. <br /> <br />Under most conditions, a wave will not penetrate inland more than a wave <br /> <br />length from the still water line. Waves accompanying hurricanes <br /> <br />14 <br />generally range from 100 to 1, 000 feet in length. Wave height at a <br /> <br />particular point along the shore differs greatly. If the wind is from the sea, <br /> <br />waves may be mountainous; if from the land, waves are often small. <br /> <br />Wave heights are related to bottom depth. Deep areas near the coast allow <br /> <br />the approach of massive waves, Shallow areas blunt the waves before <br /> <br />they reach shore. Shoreline configuration is also important. Wave <br /> <br />heights in a protected inlet or bay will be much lower than in an <br /> <br />exposed area. <br /> <br />Both the underwater and abovewater portions of beaches play <br /> <br />an important role in regulating wave heigh,ts. The authors of one article <br /> <br />concerning hurri,cane fOl"ecasting observed,: <br /> <br />The vulnerability of beach communities varies <br />considerably with the condition of the beach and dunes. <br />A wide flat beach just above the waterline and seaward <br />of the first houses permits many of the oncoming waves to <br />dissipate without damage, when the same waves would pro- <br />duce extensive damage in a region with a narrow beach. A <br />continuous dune line can likewise limit the area of wave damage <br />to the oceanfront. But the beaches and dunes are subject to <br />erosion by prolonged wave attack and areas that appeared <br />safe at the beginning of a storm may be in dangr5' if the storm <br />-surge persists through two or more high tides. <br /> <br />~~~~) <br />