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<br />Baniers-Levees, floodwalls, and berms keep flood waters from reaching . <br />a building. They are useful only in areas subject to shallow flooding. They can <br />surround the entire building, tie into high ground, or be as small as a low <br />floodwall built around an exterior stairwell to a basement. <br />Care must be taken in locating. barriers'. They must be placed 59 as not to <br />create flooding or .dl'llinage problems (In 'lieighboring properties., All barriers must <br />be kept out of regulatory floodways. . . <br />Dry Ooodproormg-A dry floodproofed building is sealed against flood <br />waters. All areas below the flood protection level are made watertight. Walls are <br />coated with waterproofmg compounds or plastic sheeting. Openings like doors, <br />windows, sewer lines, and vents are closed, either permanently, with removable <br />shields, or with sandbags. The flood protection level should be no more than 2 or <br />3 feet above the top of the foundation because the building's walls and floors <br />cannot withstand the pressure of deeper water. <br />Wet Ooodproofing- This approach is usually a last resort. Flood waters <br />are intentionally allowed into the building to minimize water pressure on the <br />structure. Wet floodproofing can include moving a few valuable items to a higher <br />place or completely rebuilding the floodable area. <br />Wet floodproofing has an advantage over other approaches: no matter how <br />little is done, flood damage will be reduced. Thousands of dollars in damage can <br />be avoided just by moving furniture and appliances out of the flood-prone area. <br />Sewer backup protection-Houses with downspouts, footing drain tile, <br />and/or a sump pump connected to the sanitary sewer service may be inundated <br />when heavy rains overload the system. If the local code allows, these should be <br />disconnected. Rain and groundwater should be directed out onto the ground, away . <br />from the building. <br />Overloaded sewers can be prevented from backing up into a home by <br />using a variety of alterations to plumbing, including a floor drain plug, a floor <br />drain standpipe, an overhead sewer, or a baclrup valve. <br />To Find Out More ~ . The State NFIP Coordinator and the Corps of <br />Engineers have more information on elevation, barriers, and floodproofing. <br /> <br />Insurance <br /> <br />Insurance has the advantage that, as long as the policy is in force, property losses <br />will be minimized, and no human intervention is needed for it to work. Although <br />most homeowner's insurance policies do not cover flood damage, there are two <br />ways an owner can insure his or her building: through the National Flood <br />Insurance Program or by purchasing basement flooding insurance. <br />National flood insurance-A community must join the National Flood <br />Insurance Program (NFIP) before its residents can buy flood insurance. Commu- <br />nity participation allows local insurance agents to sell a separate flood insurance <br />policy under rules and rates set by the Federal Emergency Management Agency. <br />Rates do not change after claims are paid; they are set on a national basis. <br />Basement flooding insurance-Policies under the NFIP can cover seepage <br />and sewer baclrup as long as there is a general condition of flooding in the area <br />that was the proximate cause of the basement's getting wet. Several private <br />insurance companies offer coverage for damage incurred if a sump pump fails or a <br />sewer line backs up. Most of them exclude damage from surface flooding that <br />would be covered by the NFIP. Each company has different amounts of coverage, <br />exclusions, deductibles, and arrangements. <br /> <br />. <br /> <br />20 <br />