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2009-03-16_GENERAL DOCUMENTS - C1981015 (2)
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2009-03-16_GENERAL DOCUMENTS - C1981015 (2)
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Last modified
8/24/2016 3:44:22 PM
Creation date
4/14/2010 10:55:12 AM
Metadata
Fields
Template:
DRMS Permit Index
Permit No
C1981015
IBM Index Class Name
General Documents
Doc Date
3/16/2009
Doc Name
PKA-9-1149 E-mail on Tamarisk on Site
From
Bob Oswald
To
Dan Mathews
Permit Index Doc Type
Reclamation Projects
Media Type
D
Archive
No
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Crosby, Erica <br />From: <br />Oswald, Robert <br />Sent: <br />Monday, March 16, 2009 11:34 AM <br />To: <br />Mathews, Dan <br />Cc: <br />Crosby, Erica <br />Subject: <br />RE: tamarisk <br />Dan and Erica — I am familiar with painting Garlon 4 on cut stumps, and I've heard it's effective. Likewise, painting Garlon <br />4 on basal bark works well. Another chem used these ways is Remedy (another Dow chem.). BASF makes Arsenal <br />herbicide, used for foliar treatment. I'm assuming that you are not treating these near an open water surface (which would <br />require different chemicals). The problem is the super reserves they have in that deep taproot system. It'll withstand <br />flood, drought, fire, almost anything we can throw at it. Obviously nothing will work with only a one -time treatment, which <br />might not fit your project budget, but something else might have to be omitted if effective treatment is to be done. <br />But maybe digging will work: if they can get everything from the root crown and down a few feet to the larger roots, it might <br />be a good way to kill this young group, or seriously knock it back. <br />In a similar situation as yours, I did see effective elimination of tammies in a bottomland site which had a restricting <br />sandstone layer about 3 ft deep. The roots spread out rather than going deep, so it was possible to dig a lot of them out, <br />with only limited need for follow -up spraying. I'm not sure about the strength of resprouting lateral roots, but possibly if <br />repeated treatments can be made, they could be effective by treating the small plants before they go to seed. Eliminate <br />the seed source then hammer it while it's weakened. This could be by repeated low cutting, and foliar sprays or painted <br />stumps for anything that comes back. <br />These spread by seed so the disturbed surface may be full of seed, and immediately sprout new plants too. Re- populating <br />the surface with the desired vegetation will be important in suppressing a reinfestation. Cool season grasses often make <br />sense in these situations since they sprout and grow early, giving the new weed plants some competition. <br />My literature calls this plant a semi - evergreen, so a foliar spray or bark treatment could be effective if it's green and active <br />now. I can fax you some Dow and BASF literature, if you want. Or check their websites. I'd suggest also checking with <br />the NRCS in Grand Junction, since they have been active in helping manage this scourge there for awhile. If I run across <br />more specifics, I'll pass them along. Good luck! Bob <br />PS — You should check this link too: http: / /www.cwma.org /nx plants /tam.htm <br />From: Mathews, Dan <br />Sent: Monday, March 16, 2009 9:30 AM <br />To: Oswald, Robert <br />Cc: Crosby, Erica <br />Subject: tamarisk <br />Dear Weed Guy, <br />Erica and I seek your guidance regarding treatment of a small patch of tamarisk. At the old Fruita Mine at the base of the <br />Bookcliffs north of Fruita, we have a sediment pond that is dry 99.999% of the time. Over the years, vegetation has <br />established in the pond bottom; a mix of cheatgrass, western wheatgrass, and rabbitbrush. But a few tamarisk seeds blew <br />in over the years too, and there are now 12 to 15 fairly robust, well established tamarisk trees. Erica is coordinating a <br />maintenance project at the site that is in progress this week and next (it is a bond forfeiture coal site, thus my <br />involvement). <br />We don't deal with tamarisk a lot in the coal program, so I thought it would be good to check with you on what might be the <br />best approach. The method I am most familiar with is the cut stump /paint (Garton) method of treatment. The contractor <br />suggested just digging /pulling the individual plants out by the root crown as an alternative to herbicide treatment. I'm <br />wondering if sprouting from severed lateral roots might be a problem if we did the mechanical treatment rather than cut <br />stump herbicidal treatment. We would prefer to minimize any resprouting and need for follow -up treatment, because we'll <br />be using up all of the remaining bond with this project. If we do use herbicide treatment, would a fall (mid- October) <br />treatment be preferable to a treatment this spring (we may extend the project for some follow -up seeding in the fall). <br />
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