My WebLink
|
Help
|
About
|
Sign Out
Home
Browse
Search
2003-04-03_REVISION - M1996076
DRMS
>
Day Forward
>
Revision
>
Minerals
>
M1996076
>
2003-04-03_REVISION - M1996076
Metadata
Thumbnails
Annotations
Entry Properties
Last modified
6/15/2021 6:06:08 PM
Creation date
11/21/2007 4:02:37 PM
Metadata
Fields
Template:
DRMS Permit Index
Permit No
M1996076
IBM Index Class Name
Revision
Doc Date
4/3/2003
Doc Name
Adequacy Response
From
Walter Aldridge
To
DMG
Type & Sequence
CN1
Media Type
D
Archive
No
There are no annotations on this page.
Document management portal powered by Laserfiche WebLink 9 © 1998-2015
Laserfiche.
All rights reserved.
/
105
PDF
Print
Pages to print
Enter page numbers and/or page ranges separated by commas. For example, 1,3,5-12.
After downloading, print the document using a PDF reader (e.g. Adobe Reader).
View images
View plain text
degrees F. The dormant seed in place has a chance to benefit from <br />snowfall as well as spring rains. <br />Spring can be successful if rainfall is above the historical <br />average. Historical weather data shows that the rainfall pattern <br />is fairly minimal through the spring months with June being hot and <br />dry. In most cases, very early spring seedings (March) are <br />difficult due to snow cover or wet conditions which prevents proper <br />seedbed preparation. If seeded in late spring, the seedlings <br />generally cannot become established adequately to withstand the <br />hot/dry month of June. <br />Late summer seedings (late July to mid August) have shown some <br />success since August and September have historically been the <br />highest rainfall months. However, a freeze is highly possible <br />starting by mid September and could severely injure or kill young <br />seedlings before they become well established. <br />Therefore, sprin.q and late summer seedings are times that are <br />exposed to the greatest risks for successful grass establishment <br />when supplemental water is not available. Dormant grass seedings <br />in early October has provided the most consistent results. <br />HOW TO SEED: Drilling the grass seed is the best method. A drill <br />provides more uniform depth of planting and better soil-to-seed <br />contact. The suggested planting depth for grass seed ranges from <br />0.5 to 1.5 cm (0.2 to 0.6 inches). The heavier the texture of the <br />soil the shallower the seed must be placed within the suggested <br />planting depth. Planting depths of 2.5 cm (approx. 1 inch) or <br />greater results in no grass emergence or plants that are so weak <br />survival is very poor. <br />Broadcasting the grass seed on the surface is a common practice and <br />can be fairly successful if done properly. Broadcasting requires <br />twice the seeding rate per acre that drilling grass seed requires.. <br />In addition, after the seed is broadcast on the surface, the seed <br />needs to be lightly mixed into the soil with a harrow and then <br />rolled with a roller or cultipacker to obtain a firm soil surface, <br />and good seed-to-soil contact. <br />MULCHES: Mulches can be a real benefit to aid in retaining <br />moisture. At this point, straw would be the mulch of choice. <br />However, the straw needs to be crimped into the soil using a disk <br />to prevent the mulch from being blown away by wind. The disk <br />should be set in a manner (minimum or no disk angJ.e) to minimize <br />soil movement since excessive soil mixing would bury too many grass <br />seed beyond the optimum germinating zone. <br />FERTILIZATION: At this point, the addition of nitrogen fertilizer <br />to spring or late summer grass seedings should be done in the <br />
The URL can be used to link to this page
Your browser does not support the video tag.