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<br /> <br />P <br />-~ - <br />Rebuild and Floodproof <br /> <br />Products That Resist <br />Water Damage <br /> <br />The products below resist water <br />damage and are safe to use in flood. <br />prone areas. <br />": Concrete, concrete block, or <br />glazed brick <br />Clay, concrete, or ceramic tile <br />Galvanized or stainless steel nails, <br />hurricane clips, and connectors <br />(in areas subject to saltwater <br />flooding) <br />Indoor-outdoor carpeting with <br />synthetic backing (do not fasten <br />down) <br />. Vinyl, terrazzo, rubber, or vinyl <br />floor covering with waterproof <br />adhesives <br />Metal doors and window frames <br />Polyester-epoxy paint (Do not use <br />mildew. resistant paint indoors, <br />especially on cribs, playpens, or <br />toys, because it contains an ingre- <br />dient that is toxic.) <br />Stone, slate, or cast stone (with <br />waterproof mortar) <br />. Mastic, silicone, or polyurethane <br />formed-in-place flooring <br />Styrofoam insulation <br />Water-resistant glue <br /> <br />40 <br /> <br />Walls <br />Wash and disinfect the studs and <br />sills if the wallboard and insula- <br />tion had to be removed. If you <br />are going to rebuild the walls, <br />remember that metal studs and <br />sills are not damaged by water <br />as much as wooden ones. <br />Pressure-treated wood will <br />resist mildew and wood-eating <br />insects outdoors, but it may <br />swell as much as untreated <br />wood when it is soaked. Some <br />kinds of pressure-treated wood <br />should not be used inside the <br />house, where they will come <br />into contact with food or skin. <br />(It depends on which chemicals <br />were used to treat them.) Ask <br />your lumber company to help <br />you choose the right products <br />for the jobs you will do. They <br />should also have consumer <br />information sheets that give spe- <br />cific precautions for some <br />products. Ask for them. <br /> <br />Wallboard <br />Think horizontal rather than <br />vertical. Install the wallboard <br />panels sideways so they are only <br />4 feet high. If the next flood is <br />less than 4 feet deep, you will <br />only have to replace half the <br />wall. (See page 19.) <br /> <br /> <br />This drawing shows another <br />suggestion. Leave the wall open <br /> <br />one inch above the sill. The <br />baseboard will hide this gap, <br />When you remove the base- <br />board after the next flood, the <br />wall cavity will drain freely and <br />air will circulate better. Check <br />your local codes, however. If a <br />fire wall is required, the building <br />code may not allow the gap. <br />"Greenboard" or other mois- <br />ture-resistant wallboard is made <br />for bathrooms and other damp <br />areas, such as basements. It may <br />be more sturdy when wet than <br />regular wallboard. But if it is <br />soaked with floodwaters, it pre- <br />sents the same health hazard as <br />regular wallboard and should be <br />replaced. <br /> <br />Floors <br />Some floors are made with parti- <br />cle board or plywood, materials <br />that fall apart when wet for long. <br />Floor joists and some wood <br />floors will regain their shape if <br />allowed to dry naturally. <br />After re-naiHng, a wooden <br />floor may need a tittle sanding <br />to be smooth, or you can place a <br />new underlayment for a new <br />floor over it. Use screws or <br />screw nails on floors and stairs <br />to minimize warping. Do not lay <br />new flooring or carpet until the <br />subflooring is comptetely dry: <br />(See box on this page for floor- <br />ing that will resist water <br />damage.) <br /> <br />Painting <br />Do not paint until the surface is <br />completely dry. If the surface <br />still contains moisture, the paint <br />will peel. Things look dry on the <br />surface long before they are dry <br />on the inside, and this can lead <br />