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<br />2 <br /> <br />mostly Indian conntry. The Navf\jo reservation, the size of West Virginia, was the largest in the country. Many <br />would say that the Hopis were, as they are now, the most traditional Indian tribe in the United States. Lands had <br />also been set aside for the Hualapai, the Havasupai, the Zuni, the Paiutes, and the Utes. There were a couple of <br />dozen small Monnon towns in southern Utah and northern Arizona, most of them baving been establisbed after <br />a party of Monnons survived the rigors of the Hole-in-the-Rock Trail in 1880 to reacb Bluff, Utah. Tbere also <br />were towns settled by Hispanos, wbo had moved over from me Cbama River valley into me Colorado Plateau to <br />settle in the San Juan River basin. The largest of these towns, to wbicb I will return, was called Rosa. But to <br />the outside world, me Plateau was an extraordinarily remote, desolate area <br /> <br />It is revealing to look at the cities that would play sucb a big role in remaking the Colorado Plateau. In 1900, <br />Pboenix was a town of 5500 souls. There wasn't a block of paved street. Arizona, like New Mexico, was still a <br />territory and would not acbieve statebood until 1912. El Paso was the largest town ill me deep Southwest, with <br />a population of 16,000. Las Vegas didn't even exist in 1900 and would not sbow up in the national census until <br />1930 because it could not meet the minimum requirement of baving a population of at least 2500. Denver (a <br />population of 134,(00), Los Angeles (102,000), and Salt Lake City (54,000) were the only areas in the region <br />that we today might classify as cities. <br /> <br />By the end of World War II, there bad been no fundamental changes on me Colorado Plateau. A poll still would <br />bave given the God-forsakenness award to me Plateau. The towns bad become cities, but small ones. Tbe <br />Pboenix metropolitan area was still just 250,000 people -- today, it is pushing 2.5 million. Los Angeles, <br />Denver, and San Diego were larger than Pboenix, but most -- Albuquerque, EI Paso, Tucson, Salt Lake City, <br />and Las Vegas.- were all smaller. All of them would expand, over the next fifty years, by eigbt, ten, times, or <br />more. <br /> <br />For as the post-War era began, the nation was looking west and the boomers and boosters in the West were <br />poised to respond. The cities of me Southwest, bowever, bad already run out of resources and they looked far <br />away, to the Colorado Plateau, for water and energy. We proceeded to engage in one of history's most intensive <br />drives for industrial development. Hoover, the world's tallest dam -- the beight of a seventy-story office building <br />and using enougb concrete to build a five-foot wide, four-incb thick bike path from the North Pole to the South <br />Pole -- had already been completed in 1935 in the soumwest comer of the Colorado Plateau. Many others were <br />installed during me twenty-five years after World War II. They included Glen Canyon Dam, creating Lake <br />Powell, 180 miles long, the largest man-made lake in the world; Navajo Dam on the San Juan River; Flaming <br />Gorge; me Curecanti Project on the Glll1nison; and many omers. Ten major diversions were constructed to <br />transport water out of the Colorado River watershed. <br /> <br />Numbers of coal-frred power plants also sprung up. Fresb water Cretaceous seas helped create vast deposits of <br />low-sulpbur coal, bigb in energy content. The San Juan, Four Corners, and Navajo generating stations ranked <br />among the largest in the world. More than a dozen others went in, on the Yampa, near Price, on the Sevier, <br />elsewbere. The biggest prize was Black Mesa, bolding perbaps me finest coal in the world. It also happened to <br />be sacred ground for me Hopi. Tbe Black Mesa leases for the Hopi and the Navajo, like many other tribal leases <br />of the 1950s and 1960s, were terrible business deals, imposed on the tribes by their federal trustee. The coal was <br />sold at below market value, with no escalator clauses. In several cases, the leases required tribes to waive their <br />sovereign authority to tax and regulate. Tribal water rigbts, too, were transferred away at bargain-basement <br />prices, in spite of me fact that they were the senior rights on me river. <br /> <br />We need to pause and look at the ideas that drove this extraordinary post-World War II era on the Plateau and <br />across the West. You know the doctrine of prior appropriation but let me take a moment to summarize it. <br />Traditional prior appropriation worked on the basis of frrst-in-time, frrst-in-right -- at least if your water use was <br />the right kind of water use. It allowed only certain favored uses, those extractive uses that qualified as so-called <br />beneficial uses. This regime flatly excluded fisb and wildlife, recreation, and the beauty and spirituality of a <br />living river. Prior appropriation effectively excluded Indian uses as well. <br /> <br />But if you did qualify, no matter bow far you were from the watershed and its communities, no matter bow <br />mucb water you needed, you bad carte blancbe. Appropriators could take all they wanted, even to the point of <br />drying up wbole rivers. Appropriators obtained a vested right, protected by the Constitution, for their <br />extractions. There was no enforcement against wasteful practices. On top of that, water, supposedly the West's <br />scarcest resource, was free, absolutely free. You might bave to pay for a diversion ditch, a dam, or a tunnel, and <br />you migbt have to pay operation and maintenance fees to me Bureau of Reclamation, but the actual water itself <br /> <br />American River Management Society <br />