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<br />said there's a great suck in the Colorado River, some <br />place where the river actually goes underground, and <br />would therefore destroy anyone floating it. We <br />worried that perhaps at some point the river would be <br />so hemmed in by the sheer canyons there would be a <br />cataract [waterfall] which would be too great to float <br />over but there would be no place to put ashore and <br />the current would be too swift to turn back so we <br />would be cascaded to our death. We wondered <br />whether there would be adequate places to camp. <br />There was a belief by some of the local Indians that <br />there was a demon, some sort of a bad medicine on <br />the river, but I felt strongly that whatever difficulties <br />we would face, we could face, particularly since five <br />of us were Civil War veterans. I knew enough about <br />rivers to know that it was unlikely that there would <br />be a cataract that we could not survive. <br />One of the joys of the expedition was naming the <br />places that we encountered. Most of these places had <br />no names. If they had them, we weren't told of them. <br />We encountered very few native peoples in the course <br />of our 99 days. We named places by sev€ral different <br />criteria. Chiefly, we used descriptive names, Gray <br />Canyon, Desolation Canyon, Beehive Point, Flaming <br />Gorge. I'd say 95 percent of all the names we gave <br />were unpoetic but descriptive. We also used a few <br />honorifics, Vasey's, Paradise, the Crossing of the <br />Fathers, the Escalante River, Ashley Falls. But these <br />were very few. In fact, it was on the second expedi- <br />tion that we tended to give honorific titles to pieces <br />in the landscape, and I'm not in favor of that, <br />generally speaking. <br />The third thing we did was literary. For example, <br />when we had our first great accident, one of the men <br />remembered a poem he had heard in his youth, a <br />poem by Robert Sothy, in which Sothy spoke of the <br />Canyons of Lodore, so we named that place the <br />Canyons of Lodore. One of our men, J.e. Sumner, <br />grumbled in his journal, thought it was un-American. <br />He said, "Why would we dive into musty old texts <br />from the old world to name places on this conti- <br />nent." But this was one of the few. We also, of course, <br />had Bright Angel Falls, Dirty Devil Creek, and a <br />handful of others. And from time to time, we simply <br />translated known Indian names, Toon-pin, wu-near, <br />Tu-weap, the standing up rock country. But chiefly <br />our form of naming was descriptive. <br />Let me give you one passage from my written <br />account, which was published in 1875. This was how <br />we named the Cliff of the Harp. I said, "At night we <br />camped on the right bank on a little shelving rock <br />between the river and the foot of the cliff, and with <br />night comes gloom into these great depths. Mter <br />supper, we sit by our campfire and tell stories of <br />wildlife, for the men have seen such in the mountains <br /> <br />or on the plains and on the battlefields of the south. <br />It is late before we throw our blankets down to sleep. <br />Lying down, I can look up through the canyon and <br />see a little of the bright sky overhead, a crescent blue <br />sky with two or three constellations peering down <br />upon us. I do not sleep for some time as the excite- <br />ment of the day has not yet worn off. Soon I see a <br />bright star that appears to rest in the very brink of the <br />canyon overhead to the east. Slowly, it floats free from <br />its resting place like a jewel on the canyon and I <br />almost wonder that it does not fall. In fact, it does <br />seem to descend in a gentle slope as if the bright sky <br />in which the stars are set were spread across the <br />canyon, resting on either wall, and swayed down by <br />its own weight. The stars appear to be in the canyon. <br />I soon discover that this is the star Vega, part of the <br />constellation of the Harp, so it occurs to me to <br />designate this portion of the wall as the Cliff of the <br />Harp." And in such ways, we named the places that <br />we met and, of course, eventually called the Great <br />Canyon, the Grand Canyon of the Colorado. <br />Well, you know what happened, we started with <br />four boats, we ended with two. One miscarried early, <br />the No-Name. Another we had to abandon at <br />Separation Rapids. We started with 10 men, Frank <br />Goodman, a florid Englishman who we found in the <br />West, a man seeking adventure, discovered after our <br />first wreck that this was more adventure than he <br />chose to endure, so he walked out at the Uinta <br />Agency. That left nine of us and the nine of us made <br />it almost to the end. We were within a few miles and <br />one day of coming out of the prism of the Grand <br />Canyon when three members of the expedition chose <br />to depart. Their names were Oramel and Seneca <br />Howland and William Dunn. They had been a part <br />of the group who lost the No-Name and there had <br />been rising tension through the course of the <br />expedition. In fact, all of the men, including G.Y. <br />Bradley, were offended that I would stop our progress <br />to take latitude and longitude observations and to <br />geologize. <br />But finally, when we got to a rapid that not even <br />G.Y. Bradley could fathom, after dinner on the 28th <br />August, 1869, Oramel Howland came to me and <br />took me aside and said, "Captain, this is madness. If <br />we attempt this falls, this rapids, we will all perish. <br />There is no way that our boats can survive this and <br />there's no way to portage either. The only rational <br />thing for us to do now would be to climb out and <br />move north on the north face of the canyon to some <br />Mormon village or other and try again another time." <br />This was deeplydismrbing, three men contem- <br />plating departure. I tried to dissuade Oramel <br />Howland but he was firm and his firmness - he was <br />one of the most interesting and intelligent men of the <br /> <br /> <br />REFLECTIONS <br />OFAN <br />ADVENTURER <br />ANDA <br />VISIONARY <br /> <br />SYMPOSIUM <br />PROCEEDINGS <br />SEPTEMBER 1999 <br /> <br />o <br />