<br />said there's a great suck in the Colorado River, some
<br />place where the river actually goes underground, and
<br />would therefore destroy anyone floating it. We
<br />worried that perhaps at some point the river would be
<br />so hemmed in by the sheer canyons there would be a
<br />cataract [waterfall] which would be too great to float
<br />over but there would be no place to put ashore and
<br />the current would be too swift to turn back so we
<br />would be cascaded to our death. We wondered
<br />whether there would be adequate places to camp.
<br />There was a belief by some of the local Indians that
<br />there was a demon, some sort of a bad medicine on
<br />the river, but I felt strongly that whatever difficulties
<br />we would face, we could face, particularly since five
<br />of us were Civil War veterans. I knew enough about
<br />rivers to know that it was unlikely that there would
<br />be a cataract that we could not survive.
<br />One of the joys of the expedition was naming the
<br />places that we encountered. Most of these places had
<br />no names. If they had them, we weren't told of them.
<br />We encountered very few native peoples in the course
<br />of our 99 days. We named places by sev€ral different
<br />criteria. Chiefly, we used descriptive names, Gray
<br />Canyon, Desolation Canyon, Beehive Point, Flaming
<br />Gorge. I'd say 95 percent of all the names we gave
<br />were unpoetic but descriptive. We also used a few
<br />honorifics, Vasey's, Paradise, the Crossing of the
<br />Fathers, the Escalante River, Ashley Falls. But these
<br />were very few. In fact, it was on the second expedi-
<br />tion that we tended to give honorific titles to pieces
<br />in the landscape, and I'm not in favor of that,
<br />generally speaking.
<br />The third thing we did was literary. For example,
<br />when we had our first great accident, one of the men
<br />remembered a poem he had heard in his youth, a
<br />poem by Robert Sothy, in which Sothy spoke of the
<br />Canyons of Lodore, so we named that place the
<br />Canyons of Lodore. One of our men, J.e. Sumner,
<br />grumbled in his journal, thought it was un-American.
<br />He said, "Why would we dive into musty old texts
<br />from the old world to name places on this conti-
<br />nent." But this was one of the few. We also, of course,
<br />had Bright Angel Falls, Dirty Devil Creek, and a
<br />handful of others. And from time to time, we simply
<br />translated known Indian names, Toon-pin, wu-near,
<br />Tu-weap, the standing up rock country. But chiefly
<br />our form of naming was descriptive.
<br />Let me give you one passage from my written
<br />account, which was published in 1875. This was how
<br />we named the Cliff of the Harp. I said, "At night we
<br />camped on the right bank on a little shelving rock
<br />between the river and the foot of the cliff, and with
<br />night comes gloom into these great depths. Mter
<br />supper, we sit by our campfire and tell stories of
<br />wildlife, for the men have seen such in the mountains
<br />
<br />or on the plains and on the battlefields of the south.
<br />It is late before we throw our blankets down to sleep.
<br />Lying down, I can look up through the canyon and
<br />see a little of the bright sky overhead, a crescent blue
<br />sky with two or three constellations peering down
<br />upon us. I do not sleep for some time as the excite-
<br />ment of the day has not yet worn off. Soon I see a
<br />bright star that appears to rest in the very brink of the
<br />canyon overhead to the east. Slowly, it floats free from
<br />its resting place like a jewel on the canyon and I
<br />almost wonder that it does not fall. In fact, it does
<br />seem to descend in a gentle slope as if the bright sky
<br />in which the stars are set were spread across the
<br />canyon, resting on either wall, and swayed down by
<br />its own weight. The stars appear to be in the canyon.
<br />I soon discover that this is the star Vega, part of the
<br />constellation of the Harp, so it occurs to me to
<br />designate this portion of the wall as the Cliff of the
<br />Harp." And in such ways, we named the places that
<br />we met and, of course, eventually called the Great
<br />Canyon, the Grand Canyon of the Colorado.
<br />Well, you know what happened, we started with
<br />four boats, we ended with two. One miscarried early,
<br />the No-Name. Another we had to abandon at
<br />Separation Rapids. We started with 10 men, Frank
<br />Goodman, a florid Englishman who we found in the
<br />West, a man seeking adventure, discovered after our
<br />first wreck that this was more adventure than he
<br />chose to endure, so he walked out at the Uinta
<br />Agency. That left nine of us and the nine of us made
<br />it almost to the end. We were within a few miles and
<br />one day of coming out of the prism of the Grand
<br />Canyon when three members of the expedition chose
<br />to depart. Their names were Oramel and Seneca
<br />Howland and William Dunn. They had been a part
<br />of the group who lost the No-Name and there had
<br />been rising tension through the course of the
<br />expedition. In fact, all of the men, including G.Y.
<br />Bradley, were offended that I would stop our progress
<br />to take latitude and longitude observations and to
<br />geologize.
<br />But finally, when we got to a rapid that not even
<br />G.Y. Bradley could fathom, after dinner on the 28th
<br />August, 1869, Oramel Howland came to me and
<br />took me aside and said, "Captain, this is madness. If
<br />we attempt this falls, this rapids, we will all perish.
<br />There is no way that our boats can survive this and
<br />there's no way to portage either. The only rational
<br />thing for us to do now would be to climb out and
<br />move north on the north face of the canyon to some
<br />Mormon village or other and try again another time."
<br />This was deeplydismrbing, three men contem-
<br />plating departure. I tried to dissuade Oramel
<br />Howland but he was firm and his firmness - he was
<br />one of the most interesting and intelligent men of the
<br />
<br />
<br />REFLECTIONS
<br />OFAN
<br />ADVENTURER
<br />ANDA
<br />VISIONARY
<br />
<br />SYMPOSIUM
<br />PROCEEDINGS
<br />SEPTEMBER 1999
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